As the weather is getting warmer down here in New Zealand, and spring flowers are starting to bloom, we've realised that can only mean one thing...we survived van life in winter.
Yes, there were times when we would question if we would ever be able to feel our fingers and toes again, or if we'd ever wake up without having to scrape off the frost from the inside of the windscreen. But after what seemed like countless mornings spent brushing our teeth in -2 degrees and manic drives to the nearest public toilets because it had been too cold to go during the night, we can proudly say that our toes have finally thawed out.
At the start of winter, I don't think we were quite prepared for what we were getting ourselves into so we've put together this blog post with everything we wish we'd known beforehand.
Freedom Camping
As we were working in Queenstown, we would usually try to stay in Freedom Campsites as much as possible, especially around the Queenstown and Wanaka area. This did prove difficult at times because there aren't a lot of options close to Queenstown which meant we'd have to drive quite a way out of the town to find a place to sleep.
Here are a few freedom campsites that we found around Queenstown:
- AJ Hacket Bridge/Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge - 24km from Queenstown. This is the closest freedom campsite that we found near Queenstown. It's easy to find, although can be noisy at night because of lorries and trucks driving past.
- Meiklejohns Bay - 26km from the centre of Queenstown, along the road towards Glenorchy. There isn't very much traffic along this road at night so its quiet, but there isn't much space for bigger vans.
- 25 Mile Stream - 29km from Queenstown, also on the road to Glenorchy. It's very calm and peaceful here, set back from the road so its very quiet at night. There's plenty of space for bigger vans but can get very cold at night because its right next to Lake Wakatipu.
- Roaring Meg Power Station - 46km from Queenstown. Small campsite in the carpark of the scenic spot overlooking Roaring Meg Power Station. Can be noisy at night because of the flowing river down below.
- Lowburn Harbour Campsite - 63km from Queenstown. This is on the outskirts of the small town of Cromwell but deserves a mention because its one of the few campsites near a town that has toilets on-site. Its quiet and has a nice view of Lake Dunstan but watch out for ducks trying to eat your breakfast.
One of the hardest things that we found about van life in Queenstown in Winter was that once we'd get out of bed, gravity would kick in and the need for a toilet became overpowering. We often found ourselves having to skip breakfast so we could drive straight to the nearest public toilets to "drop the kids off at the pool".
Our morning routine would regularly consist of waking up, scraping ice off the INSIDE of the windscreen, then racing over to the supermarket to use their toilets, free wifi, and pick up some warm bread from the bakery.
(Honourable mention to Pak'n'Save for welcoming us with free wifi, a warm toilet seat, and a great gourmet muffin selection. Definitely worth the risk of almost pissing ourselves in a public carpark)
Mechanical Issues
Did the van always start in the mornings? Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Despite the freezing temperatures, Betty the Van was surprisingly reliable although occasionally she would need a bit of 18+Rated verbal encouragement.
However, once (maybe twice) she didn't start at all. All signs of life were gone. She couldn't even muster the energy to turn the heater on so we'd have to sit in the cold and wait for a fellow camper to give us a jump start. Luckily there were often plenty of other people exploring New Zealand in a van in winter so there was always someone we could ask for help.
In order to try and avoid any major mechanical failures during our winter road trips, we took the van to a garage in Arrowtown for a general check up. They changed the oil and oil filter, fitted new spark plugs, and topped up all her fluids in order to keep her running without any issues.
Since then, she hasn't missed a beat and passed her WOF without any mechanical issues.
Here are a few key things to check and pack for winter driving in New Zealand:
- Fluids - Check the fluid levels and top up the windscreen, oil, brake, radiator fluids. If you're not sure how then ask a mechanic.
- Tyre Tread - Legal minimum in New Zealand is 1.5mm but if you're planning on driving all winter then fitting Winter Tyres might be a good idea.
- Jump Cables - These have helped save us from being stranded and we've helped start other people's vans too, good karma all round!
- Snow Chains - We didn't need these but if you're planning on driving up to the ski fields or over certain roads then these will become essential.
The roads in New Zealand are very different to elsewhere in the world, so its always good to check the weather and traffic reports before you set off. If a road is closed, or the conditions look too dangerous, either wait or see if there is another way around, don't risk it.
Weather
One thing we have to mention is how surprisingly warm the weather can be in winter in New Zealand. That is pretty much everywhere, except from Queenstown.
What we realised is that because of the mountains around the town, Queenstown is generally always in the shade and that makes it extremely cold. Whilst this is great for easy access to The Remarkables and Cadrona ski resorts, we didn't get the chance to hit the slopes so couldn't make the most of it which we slightly regret.
Most weekends, we would drive up towards sunny Wanaka or even further over to Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park for some great hiking and incredible views. If it wasn't for Leo's job in Queenstown, we would have spent less time in Queenstown and more time somewhere sunnier!
Overall, the weather was never so bad that we were stranded anywhere, but it did mean a few cold nights in the van that we would have gladly spent somewhere a bit warmer...
Cooking in the Cold
Because you'll be spending a lot of time in the cold when living in a van in winter in New Zealand, three things are absolutely essential:
- Warm Socks
- Cups of tea (and mulled wine)
- A sense of humour
We couldn't cook in the van with the doors closed, so one of us would have to stand outside and cook. This meant that getting ready for dinner meant dressing up as if we were on a polar expedition, trying to stop the gas cooker from going out and warming up our hands by holding them as close to the flames as possible without burning ourselves.
The cooking was made bearable by plenty of mulled wine, several pairs of socks and as many jumpers as we could fit under our coats. The washing up, like taxes and death, was always unavoidable. The sink in the van isn't big enough to hold a sponge, let alone our pots and pans, so we'd usually wash our dishes in a public toilet. Very glamorous. Cold mornings spent scrubbing the previous nights crusty pasta remains certainly won't make it onto the list of highlights of our trip, but they are memories that we will never forget (however much we wish we could).
Cost
Our initial decision to stay in Freedom Campsites had been guided by the idea that we'd be able to save money by not paying to stay in accommodation in Queenstown. I mean why else would you voluntarily cook in the freezing cold with no nearby toilets and go to sleep knowing that you'd have to scrape ice off from the inside of the windscreen the next morning?
Our calculations had been based on the idea that we'd be able to stay closer to the centre of Queenstown, but it turned out that we were spending so much money on petrol back and forth from freedom campsites every day that finding a place to stay in town would have probably been cheaper.
There were a few nights when it was just too cold to stay in the van so we did find some last minute deals for rooms in Queenstown. It gave us the chance to remember what a real bed felt like and to cook in a kitchen that wasn't freezing!
Tips
Whilst living in a van in winter is great experience, it can sometimes feel like a struggle but there a few things that can make it easier:
- Cheap Jacuzzis - When you can no longer feel your toes, and all you want is to remember what its like to feel human, then a visit to the spa is definitely needed. There are plenty of swimming centres around New Zealand, and one of our favourites was Alpine Splash Land in Queenstown. Its got a giant hot tub and only costs $8 for full access for as long as you want. We went early in the mornings and sometimes during school hours which meant that there was almost nobody there and it would feel like your own personal jacuzzi.
- Blankets Galore - A wise person once said "you can never have too many blankets", and so we took their advice and always slept with at least 3 thick blankets over us to help keep us warm. Sometimes it wasn't enough, but once we put on yet another pair of socks and another thick jumper we'd usually survive the night.
- Mulled Wine - Whilst cooking dinner in the cold, we'd often clutch onto cups of mulled wine to help keep our fingers warm. It soothed our bodies and our minds and tasted great. Memories of Christmas markets and open fires helped too...
Should you wait until summer?
Taking a road trip around New Zealand in the summer is the most popular option, but as its more popular in summer, the roads get busier and the popular tourist attractions and scenic spots become full of tourists and the dreaded sandflies.
Because we explored as much as possible during the winter months, we'd often be able to visit tourist spots and not be surrounded by other tourists trying to take the same photos. Not only is it quieter and less busy, but the scenery is just as incredible (if not more). Frosty mornings and snowy hikes to iceberg filled glacial lakes are some of the most incredible moments of our trip, something that wouldn't have been possible during the height of summer.
What We Learnt
Living in a van and exploring New Zealand in winter can help save you money, but because we stayed in just one town, Queenstown, for the majority of the winter months, we didn't manage to save any money. Our van guzzles petrol faster than we guzzle wine so we spent a lot of money on the drives back and forth to freedom campsites.
But, if you’re planning a road trip in winter for the bat-shit crazy and once in a life time experience then you won't regret it. There are highs and lows, laughs and tears, but ultimately the memories made whilst waking up to the sunrise gleaming through your frosted window, or seeing the milky way more times than you can count and dancing in the snow to keep your toes warm, glugging mulled wine like its tea and cheering your van on as it struggles up the hill because its just too cold are memories that we'll remember forever.
Van life in winter is cold, beautiful and we don’t regret it one single bit.
September 24, 2018
So good. Very well written and it feels like you are there with you traveling and experience the same time. Hope your continue traveling is a great as this has been. Lots of love Kristina Berg
September 25, 2018
Thank you! We hope so too! Lots of Love xxxxx
November 16, 2018
I feel likeI have been there with the two of you. Thank you for sharing your memories, the fun and the hard times. I am too old travel like you (81) , but with you it seems like I have done it!
November 21, 2018
That makes us so happy! Thank you for reading our stories, it makes it so worth it writing them all down 🙂
July 22, 2020
Really appreciate you sharing this.Really thank you! Keep writing.
August 15, 2020
We’re so glad you enjoyed it! Thank you 😊